1600 Dallas Dr, Denton, TX 76205
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Mon–Fri 8:00–5:30(940) 514-8690

Radiator & Cooling System Repair · Denton, TX · Since 1995

Coolant Leak Repair — We Find Where It's Actually Going

Coolant doesn't burn off or wear out — a sealed cooling system holds the same fluid for years. So when your reservoir keeps dropping, the coolant is escaping somewhere, and in the Texas heat a slow leak becomes an overheated engine fast. Eagle's ASE-certified techs pressure-test the system, trace the leak to the exact part with UV dye, and fix the source — not mask it with a can of stop-leak. Written estimate before any work, since 1995.

  • ✓ Pressure-tested diagnosis — we show you the source
  • ✓ Written estimate before any work
  • ✓ Free 40-mile towing on major transmission repair

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Tell us what your coolant's doing

We'll only use your info to contact you about your request.

The straight truth about low coolant

Coolant doesn't get used up. If you're low, you have a leak.

An engine's cooling system is a sealed, pressurized loop. The same coolant circulates for years — it doesn't burn off or evaporate, and it should never need topping up every month. So a reservoir that keeps dropping has only one explanation: it's escaping, onto the ground or into the engine. Topping it off over and over just hides the countdown — the level falls again, and in a Denton summer the next overheat can cost you a head gasket. We'd rather find the leak first.

Catch It Early

The signs of a coolant leak — and what each one means

Most leaks warn you for weeks before they leave you on a shoulder. Any of these is your cue to get the system pressure-tested before a Texas afternoon finds the weak spot for you.

White smoke from the tailpipe or milky oil is a different, more serious sign — coolant leaking inside the engine. If that's what you're seeing, start with our head gasket page.

Where coolant leaks hide

A leak can be a dollar hose clamp or a part buried against the firewall

Coolant escapes wherever the loop is joined, sealed, or exposed to heat and pressure. Some spots take minutes to reach; others take hours. Here's the range, roughly from most common and accessible to least.

  1. Hoses & clamps Rubber radiator and heater hoses harden and split with age and Texas heat, and the clamps at their ends loosen — the most common and cheapest coolant leak to fix.
  2. Radiator — seams, end tanks & core The plastic end tanks crack, the seams weep, and road debris punctures the thin core up front. Often repairable, sometimes a replacement — we show you which.
  3. Water pump weep hole The pump has a small weep hole that drips coolant when its internal seal starts to fail — a telltale sign it's on the clock.
  4. Thermostat housing & gaskets The housing gasket and the intake-side seals dry out and seep, often leaving a crusty trail that points right to them.
  5. Heater core Hidden inside the dash, the heater core is the hardest to reach — a fogged, sweet-smelling windshield and a wet front carpet are its tells.
  6. Head gasket (internal) The one that isn't external at all — coolant leaking into a cylinder or the oil. We confirm it with a combustion-gas test before anyone says the words.

If the test points inside the engine, that's a different repair — see our head gasket page. Everything else on this list, we fix here.

How we actually find it

Three ways to pin down where it's escaping

A guess isn't a diagnosis. Coolant can vanish as steam off hot metal and never leave a puddle, so we use real tools — often more than one — to confirm the exact source before we quote a repair.

  1. Level 1

    Cooling-system pressure test

    We pressurize the cold system to its rated cap pressure and watch the gauge hold — or fall — then sweep the usual suspects: hose clamps, radiator seams, the water-pump weep hole, the thermostat housing, and the cap itself.

    Most external leaks are found and quoted right here.

  2. Level 2

    UV dye trace

    For a seep that evaporates before it drips, we add a fluorescent dye to the coolant, run a drive cycle, then scan every joint under ultraviolet light. The dye glows at the exact spot it's escaping.

    Slow, hidden seeps pinpointed to the exact part.

  3. Level 3

    Combustion-gas block test

    When coolant disappears with no external trace, we test it for combustion gases — the definitive check for a head-gasket breach. Nobody should hear those words as a guess; we confirm before we ever say them.

    Internal leaks proven — or ruled out — before any big-job talk.

Which level it takes depends on how fast you're losing coolant and where the symptoms point — and the finding lands in plain English with a written estimate before any repair.

Two very different answers to a leak

A can of stop-leak vs. finding and fixing it

The parts-store shelf sells a shortcut. Here's the straight difference between masking a leak and repairing it.

A can of stop-leak

The shortcut in a can

  • Pours particles into the coolant meant to plug small leaks from the inside
  • Masks the symptom without ever finding the real source
  • Can clog the heater core, radiator passages, and water-pump seals it flows through
  • Does nothing about the part that's actually failing
  • No diagnosis — you still don't know what leaked or why
What we do

Find & fix the leak

The right repair

  • Pinpoint the exact source with a pressure test, UV dye, or a combustion-gas test
  • Replace the failed part — the hose, radiator, water pump, or gasket that's leaking
  • Refill with the exact coolant your engine's spec calls for, then bleed the air out
  • Pressure-test again so you leave knowing it holds
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As a get-home-today bandage, stop-leak has saved people in a pinch. If you've already run a can through your system, tell us — it changes what we look for and how we service it.

Our leak-repair sequence

How a coolant leak repair goes, start to finish

Every coolant leak repair follows the same disciplined order so the fix holds and the air is out.

  1. 1 Confirm the leak Pressure-test and trace it to the exact source — and show you where it's going.
  2. 2 Replace the failed part Swap the leaking hose, radiator, water pump, thermostat housing, or gasket for a new one.
  3. 3 Refill to factory spec Refill with the exact coolant chemistry your engine calls for — never a universal jug.
  4. 4 Bleed the air out Purge the air pockets that cause hot spots and false overheats — the step a quick top-off skips.
  5. 5 Pressure-test again Re-pressurize and watch it hold, so the repair is proven before you drive off.
  6. 6 Verify it runs cool Bring it to temperature and confirm the gauge sits right where it should.

If a coolant flush is due while the system's open, we'll say so — that's covered on our coolant flush page.

Where your repair goes next

Related cooling & engine work

Once we know where the coolant's going, here's where the job may lead from here.

1995 Serving Denton Since
50+ Years Combined Experience
4.3 Average Google Rating
284 Google Reviews
4.3 from 284 Google reviews

The shop Denton calls when the coolant won't stay put

A leak you can't find is exactly where padding an estimate would be easy — so the record matters more than the promise. Three decades of Denton drivers describing straight answers about what actually failed, fair prices on the fix, and warranties honored after the fact. ASE-certified, ATRA member, and women-owned.

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Coolant leak questions

Straight answers about coolant leaks

How much does coolant leak repair cost?

It depends entirely on where the leak is. A hose or a clamp is inexpensive; a radiator or water pump is more; a heater core buried in the dash is labor-heavy because of everything that has to come apart to reach it. We won't quote a number over the phone without finding the leak first — you'll get a written estimate before any work, and financing through Snap and Synchrony is available on approved credit.

Can I just use stop-leak instead of fixing it?

As a get-home-today bandage it has saved people in a pinch. As a repair it isn't one — the same particles that plug the leak can clog your heater core and radiator passages, and it does nothing about the part that's failing. If you've already used it, just tell us; it changes what we look for and how we service the system.

Can I keep driving with a small coolant leak?

Only very briefly, and watching the gauge like a hawk. A small leak drops the level, and a low system overheats — and an overheated engine can warp a head or blow a head gasket, turning a cheap repair into a big one. In the Texas heat, sooner is a lot cheaper than later.

What's the most common coolant leak?

Hoses and their clamps are the most common — the rubber hardens and splits with age and heat. The radiator's plastic end tanks and the water-pump weep hole are close behind. All three are things we find with a cooling-system pressure test.

My coolant is disappearing but there's no puddle — where's it going?

Two possibilities. It may be seeping slowly and flashing off as steam on hot metal before it ever drips — a pressure test and UV dye find that. Or it's going inside the engine, past a head gasket, which we confirm with a combustion-gas test. Either way, we prove it before we quote it.

Can you match my car's specific coolant?

Yes. Coolant color is a dye, not a grade — what matters is the specification in your owner's manual. We look up the exact chemistry your engine calls for and refill to spec, never a one-jug-fits-all shortcut, because the wrong coolant corrodes the very parts it is meant to protect.

Denton, TX · Since 1995

Chasing the coolant level? Let's find the leak.

Bring it to Eagle Transmission & Auto Repair at 1600 Dallas Dr. We'll pressure-test the system, show you exactly where the coolant's going, and put real numbers in writing before we touch a thing. Mon–Fri 8:00–5:30, serving Denton, Lewisville, Flower Mound, and all of North Texas.

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